If there is one thing men’s jewelry designers will agree on, it is that the design scene has witnessed a sea change in the choice of accessories such as cufflinks, lapel pins and tiepins.
British jeweler Theo Fennel observes that things have “changed backwards and forwards a lot” from huge medallions and big, clunky bracelets to almost no jewelry. “But men have now decided that it should be each to his own taste, especially amongst our clients. The big difference is you can wear what suits you and what makes you feel good. I certainly do,” says Fennell.
His cufflinks feature aeroplanes, fort doors, enamelled horses and binocular motifs, among others. A particularly clever design is a pair of cufflinks that open up a garage door to reveal hand-enamelled red Ferrari cars. “I want to design pieces that are individual and beautifully crafted.” Fennell, like many of this tribe, ensures the jewel is something “very personal and talismanic;” not a mere accessory. Many of the cufflinks from Fennell’s workshop can have individual touches like enamelled scenes added to it, and others are bespoke. “Either way, they all have some quirk and fine touches.”
Another jeweler making waves with his eclectic cufflinks in diamonds, black onyx, blue sapphires, lapis lazuli is Martin Katz. “I start with cufflink shapes that I like for myself. I try to create something classic but with a modern twist in the design, especially by using special stones or materials like meteorite. I have gents’ cufflinks that have some edge to them but I try to stay away from going too avant-garde with the design. I leave that to other designers,” says Katz, who sometimes uses mother-of-pearl and pinctada maxima to accent the accessories.
Independent jewelers keen to experiment with design and technique, include the likes of Tomasz Donocik, who prefers to design playful, elegant or figurative pieces. “I think men associate themselves better with figurative motives that they can recognise. Hence, I use the hunting motifs of the grouse bird or the crocodile in my design and choose the stones to match it.” The black diamonds of the tuxedo jewel add an understated appeal. “It is dark, a bit rock ‘n roll but elegant at the same time,” adds Donocik, who specialises in bespoke and private commissions.
One to watch is Italian designer Marco dal Maso. Inspired by Maori tattoo art, he designed quirky pins for the Askari collection. Other interesting designs form part of the Fu and Toki lines for his Marco Ta Moko brand. Tom Rucker’s laser welded platinum wire cufflinks are smart and elegant, while Suzanne Syz adds cheer to her cufflinks with playful colored pills. Take your pick from our edit of men’s cufflinks and pins.
View the jewellery in the Photo Gallery.
Smitha Sadanandan
