ELIE SAAB’S PASSAGE TO INDIA
Elie Saab cited India as the inspiration for his Spring Summer 2016 collection and as show-goers entered a dimly-lit, palm-lined jungle set, Saab’s couture interpretation came to life. Riders On The Storm by The Doors offered a laid back introduction to a collection which drew upon styles from the Edwardian and Victorian eras through high necklines, fluted sleeves and caped, lace dresses.
It was the designer’s portrayal of Indian influences that dominated though. Fluid harem trousers were flanked by panels of silk which billowed alongside them, or teamed with mirror-effect kaftans. A sari-like swathe of fabric slung over a pretty white shirt offered an East meets West approach. Everything gleamed with metallic threading and jewels. Even the most delicate of fabrics seemed to effortlessly support the heavy beading and needlework bestowed upon them. The footwear stood out as silver Dr Marten boots complete with bespoke fringing sashayed alongside gilt-coated gladiators. Although exotic in its influences, there was a bohemian err about the collection, too. The headpieces draped over undone hair, laser-cut lace and fluid fabrics gave over-worked couture a free-spirited feel.
Through “dazzling purity and the imperfect symmetry defined through the fine lace and embroideries” Saab wanted to lift up the old-world attitude to couture. That he achieved with aplomb.
Elaine Lloyd-Jones
