Runway

Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017

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"Can you guess the theme?" Jean Paul Gaultier teased us on his Snapchat account as green leaves floated on screen. The designer went back to nature. You only had to look at the hairpieces woven into coils above the head that looked like the roots of a tree. Then there were the delicate petals appliquéd to the models' lips. That's even before we got to the moss green tulle and lace gown complete with foliage headpiece and the tropical parrot-like lime green tiered dress or the earthy wood colours of a leather trench with fur trim. There is always a take on the trench in a Gaultier show and a statement bride. This season her veiled headpiece rose like the moon across an enchanted forest. Gaultier is one of the last great couturiers of the old guard and his craftsmanship and humour were as always evident in his spectacular show in Paris.

 

Natalie Théo