Jewelry & Watches

The Hublot Rebel That Redefined the Rules

Hublot revisits the audacious porthole watch that challenged Swiss watchmaking, reimagining its rebellious 1980 origins through contemporary haute horlogerie.

Some watches enter history quietly. Others arrive to disrupt it. In 1980, Carlo Crocco’s creation did precisely the latter. At a time when Swiss horology was bound by rigid orthodoxy, Crocco adopted an unconventional, fiercely independent philosophy. He dared to pair a noble 18K gold case with an industrial black rubber strap – an unprecedented material clash that turned traditional luxury codes upside down.

Unveiled at the Basel Fair under his company label, MDM Genève and drawing inspiration from its round bezel secured to the case by twelve functional screws, the watch was named Hublot, the French word for "porthole" – the name that the Maison adopts today for itself. Stripped of ornamental excess and traditional indices, the dial was an exercise in pure minimalism, allowing the twelve screws around the bezel to double as tactile hour markers. It was graphic, immediate, and provocative. Gold met rubber, opulence met utility, and in one decisive gesture, Crocco introduced a founding ethos that would define the Maison for decades: the Art of Fusion.

Forty-six years later, Hublot returns to that seminal silhouette with the Classic Fusion Tributo. Conceived not as a passive vintage reissue, the release represents a return to origins built with the full weight of the Nyon Manufacture’s modern mastery. As Hublot CEO Julien Tornare observes, to honor the Maison's beginnings is not to freeze them in time, but to keep them in motion – merging Crocco’s minimalist disruptive vision with advanced horological depth.

The case proportions have been updated from 36mm to a contemporary 38mm at a slim 9.5mm thickness, without disturbing the harmony of the original. The architecture retains its exposed lugs, screwed-down crown ensuring 100 meters of water resistance, tactile domed bezel screws, and integrated black lined rubber strap. In a deliberate nod to historical integrity, Hublot consciously omitted its modern One Click quick-release strap system, preserving the clean, uncompromised lines of the 1980 original.

Beneath the restrained exterior lies genuine mechanical elevation. While the 1980 original housed a quartz movement, the Classic Fusion Tributo is driven by the self-winding HUB1711 Manufacture calibre. Comprising 185 components, the movement features an optimized gear train delivering an extended power reserve of 50 hours. It is fitted with an open-worked oscillating weight shaped as the signature Hublot "H," fully visible through a sapphire exhibition caseback.

The tribute is presented in two distinct aesthetic expressions. The 18K Yellow Gold Edition purely echoes the timepiece’s 1980 debut by pairing an 18K yellow gold case with a black lacquered dial featuring a subtle charcoal finish and featuring a matching 22K yellow gold rotor and a discreet gold "MDM" signature above 6 o'clock. This pad-printed emblem bridges horology and philanthropy, honoring both the original MDM Genève brand and Crocco's Main Dans la Main (MDM) Foundation, established in 1998 to support vulnerable children and communities. To commemorate the launch, Hublot is donating CHF 100,000 to the foundation. As for the18K White Gold Edition, it’s a more formal, sartorial interpretation inspired by the sharp elegance of Italian tailoring. It pairs a white gold case with a deep black onyx dial, polished black-plated titanium bezel screws, and a black tungsten oscillating mass.

For Carlo Crocco, seeing his breakthrough reinterpreted nearly half a century later bridges Hublot's founding spark with the global force it has become. Reflecting on this evolution, Crocco noted: “When I created MDM Genève, it was a deeply personal endeavor – hands-on, heart-involved, driven by a singular idea: gold and rubber. Entrusting it to others, even good and talented hands, was never easy for me. Yet, returning to Nyon, visiting the Manufacture, and discovering the latest creations, I see profound continuity and mastery. I see what those hands have collectively built. Witnessing Hublot’s evolution, I realize it was the best decision I ever made. It fills me with immense pride and deep gratitude. Today, seeing the very first design and the origins of the Art of Fusion brought back to life is deeply emotional.”

Backed by Hublot’s extended warranty structure offering up to ten years of coverage, the Classic Fusion Tributo stands as an essential milestone. It honors the audacity of a founder who dared to break Swiss watchmaking rules in 1980, reaffirming that the Maison's cutting-edge present remains anchored in the visionary rebellion of its past.

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