Once in a blue moon, a collection will leave me entranced and mystified.
Mary made me dream in blue this season. The London-based designer picked a blue runway and reflective backdrop to present her shimmering collection, which was “constructed to confuse”.
Was I perplexed to see glittery open-toed tights worn with thick multi-colored cone dresses in a summer line? Perhaps a little. Did I expect metallic dresses to have bright yellow tweed sleeves? Not in a million years, but if something works, it works. Would I have added oversized bows to petite puffy looks? Probably not, but I don’t have half of Katrantzou’s vision or skills.
If a specific region inspired the designer, I’d guess it to be The Balkans, as the collection was full of bright colors, yet exuded a sort of iciness. Petite metallic dresses, which very well could be next summer’s new little black dresses, glided through the runway. Frosty blue chiffon dresses were paired with red or fuchsia tights, which resulted in interesting – confusing even – looks.
Leonore Dicker