Hedi Slimane knows the city streets, as though he moves through them at night observing his legion of girls. The designer remained true to spirit with his spring ’16 unveiling for Saint Laurent, held at Le Carreau du Temple. This time, he introduced classic Glastonbury looks with a heavy punk undertone, giving way to a naughtier and more sophisticated festivalgoer than the present usual’s. Slimane is closely in touch with the growing youth - one of rebellious nature - and he is perfectly aligned with their needs while always remaining one step ahead by giving them what they never thought they needed.
Models in barely there black silk slip dresses with high slits sashayed down the runway. It was rock glam without being pretentious. The entire collection reminded me of the band Hole, the 90’s rock band formed by Courtney Love, which was a personal favorite. It evoked the irony of being a bad girl who was also feminine in nature. Though Slimane’s girls are darker, it’s the play on rock and punk sensibilities with female instincts that make for a worthy paradox. Tiara wearing models is what brought forth this strong recollection and it felt as relevant as it did in the 90’s.
Beaded transparent mini dresses worn with an army jacket and wellington rain boots was young and poked fun. Denim short overalls, lamé gold bomber jackets, a cheetah printed mini slip dresses paired with an oversized suit jacket and many lace transparent mini dresses that passed the illusion for being mistaken for an oversized camisole top made for strong elements.
Though nothing relatively new is revealed, it is how Slimane tweaks vintage or classic elements and turns them into relevant and desired pieces, which makes him stand apart. Reinventing the wheel is slim, one would have to be out of reach with reality to deem themself capable, and Slimane is no illusionist. He knows too well that a movement never dies and that it simply adapts to its time. For those watching, this is where Slimane’s true genius lies.
Mouna Harati
