Diving into the art of cloisonné enameling, Hermès reinterprets its iconic Pendentif Boule watch. Requiring unique skills, the one-of-a-kind pendant watch takes the shape of a sphere with a rounded back on which the enameller creates an artful delicate motif for the house of Hermès.
Using a compass, the craftsman marks the central point of a white-gold half-sphere. White-gold cloisons or patitions are then patiently and delicately put in place in order to start the artistic operation of the cloisonné enameling. The partitions will later embrace the various shades of enamel.
The artisan starts from the center and gently bends the slim gold ribbons that he shapes by hand until they take the curve of the sphere. After drawing the slimmest petals, he sketches out the lower rows. The perfection of this enameling technique resides in the perfect adjustment of each and every partition, as well as of the dome’s surface. Otherwise, the enamels would seep out of their golden compartments when molten in the kiln.
Coloring comes next. Using a brush, the artisan applies finely crushed enamel powder in various colors to the white-gold hemmed petals. After numerous firings at an 800oC temperature, the colors gain their radiance.
Beautifully dangling from a white-gold chain, the Pendentif Boule reveals its two faces according to the wearer’s desire: while a multi-colored corolla motif adorns the back of the watch, the dial side is supplied with a white mother-of-pearl background.
Mirella Haddad