Elsa Schiaparelli’s surreal touch was ever-so alive at the Haute Couture Fall/Winter 16/17 show. Today, Bertrand Guyon brought back the memories of a clever designer, one whose taste made her a creative rival to other pioneering fashion enthusiasts at the time.
Come to think of it, the show was all a matter of bulky shoulders and ephemeral designs, as models paraded down the runway in a medieval-meets futuristic allure. With their hair tied back in a sleek knot and their outstanding thunder-gaze, they pierced their way into the crowd in classy ensembles embellished with numerous personas, from rigid faces, to masks, stars and animals. And then came the high-slit skirts, the wide-legged pants, the one-shoulder dresses and the over-sized fur coats. It was all very Cirque du Soleil, but in a Schiaparelli way. Think shocking pink and an explosion of colors scattered around evasive designs. Embroidered two-piece ensembles, sheer adding and shimmering fabrics subtly marked the transition from daywear to nightwear, bringing forth a slew of delicate satin gowns and velour delicacies.
With intricate draping techniques and colors skewing from earthy tones to cooler hues and a dash of the brand’s signature pink, the crowd was momentarily swept away into another dimension, possibly one of great intensity and demure. Elsa Schiaparelli collaborated with artists in her time, but now Guyon collaborates with his inner ingenuity!
Cindy Menassa