For Summer 2027, Anthony Vaccarello turns gold into a language of light, emotion and transformation at Saint Laurent. Drawing on Yves Saint Laurent’s enduring fascination with the color, the collection explores its many incarnations – from Byzantine and Renaissance tones to burnished, matte and almost Brutalist finishes.

Rather than simply decorating the clothes, gold completely envelops them, illuminating a wardrobe built around the house’s most recognizable archetypes. Sahariennes, trench coats, blouses and wrap skirts revisit Monsieur Saint Laurent’s legacy, while strong-shouldered coats, voluminous blousons and sharply cut suits reflect Vaccarello’s own modern signatures.

A rich interplay of lamé, organza, guipure lace, mousseline, brocade, jacquard and gold-leaf-coated latex gives every look a different interpretation of radiance. Intricate embroidery and jewelry-like embellishment add a couture sensibility while preserving a distinctly contemporary attitude.

Accessories heighten the drama with monumental filigree earrings and gilded chain shoes set on sculptural snake heels. Then, as the show draws to a close, gold surrenders to black: velvet tailoring and ethereal evening dresses absorb the light, leaving behind a final, unforgettable trace of Saint Laurent’s seductive allure.