by Yalda Zacca
Riccardo Tisci sets his own rules; he has ever since he started at Givenchy almost a decade ago. While his peers presented floral motifs and the (oh so popular) retro trend, Tisci exhibited downright maturity with a powerful dark and sensual spring collection that is perhaps his best to date.
The Italian designer put aside flowers, Bambi and howling dogs and took us back to his roots—the intriguing Gothic aesthetic that he became known for at the beginning of his tenure at Givenchy and that helped the historic brand regain its position in the industry.
With technical maturity the collection had a singular message: 19th century Eastern European romanticism done with couture-like precision. The inspiration was evident throughout the mainly black, white and brown collection made mainly of leather, lace and chiffon. Embellished collar-less stiff jackets inspired by traditional Balkan coats, Orthodox crosses embellished into tops, peasant tops with flowing shoulder baring sleeves and cross-laced corsets made of silk ribbon drove the message home.
High-waisted A-line skirts and skin-tight pants, black and white lace baby-doll dresses and the skintight thigh-high leather lace-up boots turned up the sex appeal. Sensual yet powerful and assuming, Tisci’s women are the Knights not the damsels in distress.
Though at times the celebrity driven designer seems overly consumed with giving Baby Nori a seat at his show (mind you, in a custom made Givenchy gown), today, he proved that his talent speaks for itself.
Riccardo Tisci sets his own rules; he has ever since he started at Givenchy almost a decade ago. While his peers presented floral motifs and the (oh so popular) retro trend, Tisci exhibited downright maturity with a powerful dark and sensual spring collection that is perhaps his best to date.
The Italian designer put aside flowers, Bambi and howling dogs and took us back to his roots—the intriguing Gothic aesthetic that he became known for at the beginning of his tenure at Givenchy and that helped the historic brand regain its position in the industry.
With technical maturity the collection had a singular message: 19th century Eastern European romanticism done with couture-like precision. The inspiration was evident throughout the mainly black, white and brown collection made mainly of leather, lace and chiffon. Embellished collar-less stiff jackets inspired by traditional Balkan coats, Orthodox crosses embellished into tops, peasant tops with flowing shoulder baring sleeves and cross-laced corsets made of silk ribbon drove the message home.
High-waisted A-line skirts and skin-tight pants, black and white lace baby-doll dresses and the skintight thigh-high leather lace-up boots turned up the sex appeal. Sensual yet powerful and assuming, Tisci’s women are the Knights not the damsels in distress.
Though at times the celebrity driven designer seems overly consumed with giving Baby Nori a seat at his show (mind you, in a custom made Givenchy gown), today, he proved that his talent speaks for itself.
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