by Mouna Harati
Elie Saab’s couture-knowhow has taken on a different shape - one that evokes similar praise but that is rather sensed not seen. Saab’s ‘La Collection des Essences’ is a note-worthy collection of “couture” fragrances that is as revealing today as it was when first unveiled last year. In collaboration with perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, four essences come alive in jewel-like glass bottles that capture the light, a defining force in all of Saab’s creations.
To meet Saab’s elaborate couture designs, Kurkdjian elevated ingredients to heightened lengths, allowing every essence to carry its own depth and personality. The result, four storied essences that tell an intricate tale of their own.
No 1 Rose
Like the unraveling layers of a flower, this essence is similarly composed of overlapping coats. A powerful burst of blooming fresh flowers unfolds in this essence, which twines together Damascena, Turkish and Bulgarian Roses as well as rose absolute, the oil extracted from the petals of the flowers from Grasse and Turkey. A scent with “a thousand faces”, endnotes of Vanilla and Cedar accompany the empowering Rose throughout her journey.
No 2 Gardenia
This beautiful heightened scent has a strong feminine presence. Referred to as “a tribute to the art of trompe l’oeil”, this olfactory brilliance has captured the very essence of gardenia. As it ties in creamy wood tones, floral notes, hearty Iris Butter absolute and Egyptian Sambac Jasmine it is gently caressed with lasting precious Indian Sandalwood.
No 3 Amber
“A radiant glow born from black” perfectly summarizes this essence. With one smell one can feel the depth of this alluring scent. Just like an Elie Saab sequined gold couture gown, this scent’s strength lies in the mysteries it evokes. Born from the darkest elements on perfumer Kurkdjian’s palette, notes of Opoponax, Patchouli and Sandalwood dominate this empowering scent whose sharp golden colored pigment reflects throughout all of the corners of the glass bottle. The beauty about No 3 Amber is that it flirts with the possibility of being either a feminine or masculine scent. Many men are known to wear this particular essence or mix with No 4 Oud.
No 4 Oud
Elie Saab’s intricately woven black lace gowns come to mind when smelling this essence. In a carefully composed mixture of heavy bodied scents, spicy elements of Black Pepper, softer components of Benjoin and the essence’s sensual underbelly, Agar Wood, come together to form a powerful fusion. This lasting scent grabs you at first and lingers throughout. Worn by both women and men, No4 Oud is an intriguing tale of its own - waiting to be released.
ELIE SAAB La Collection des Essences can be found at all ELIE SAAB boutiques, Bloomingdales (UAE) and Harvey Nichols (UAE & KSA).
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