UK-born designer Paul Smith has long been a prominent figure in the British fashion industry, driven to the top by his notorious class and timeless positive attitude. Knighted by Queen Elizabeth in 2000, the designer gained the title of “Sir Paul Smith” and has since then won many fashion awards and adhered several collaborations, all the while staying true his down-to-earth self. Azyaamode had the chance to meet the British fashion icon during London Fashion Week to talk about his extraordinary calling.
We hear that you “accidentally” came across the fashion design path. What was that one sign that ignited this successful career?
That is right, literally! I actually have a passion for cycling and I initially wanted to be a professional racing cyclist. But one day, after getting into a cycling accident, I met two boys at the hospital who suggested we go out for drinks. Luckily one of them chose an English pub in my hometown, which was where all the students from the art school went. Once we were there, I found myself talking to fashion designers, photographers, artists and it was really fascinating as I found myself wondering if one could earn a living doing something so creative and such fun. And later on, the answer was an absolute yes!
You moved from being a working-class young man to the other end of the spectrum, brilliantly becoming an extremely successful designer. What was it like climbing the ladder?
The process was slow, and the main thing was that it was not like a rocket; it was just very gentle. Nowadays, everybody is advancing so fast, it’s become a problem. It is sad how we have become so well-informed and how we learn and know everything so fast.
What made you adopt the initiative of designing for both men and women?
Well originally it was just for men and then about 20 years ago, lots and lots of girls were buying my male clothes. It was during a period of time when masculine fashion was popular and you would wear your boyfriend’s jacket or jeans, and everybody kept saying “why don’t you make clothes for women?” And so that is how it started. And luckily they became really popular in the last few years.
Was it a full collection from the start?
At the beginning it was really just boys’ clothes, like jackets, trousers and shirts. They were really popular the first two years, and then everybody started asking for dresses and skirts. At the time I was not really interested in doing that but eventually I did. So in the beginning, it was okay, but I didn’t really find my feet until these last few years. It takes a long time. You girls!
Could you tell us more about your wife and her position in your business life?
My wife was the reason why I opened my first shop. She trained as a fashion designer at the Royal College of Art in London and I had left school at the age of 15 so I did not have the right qualifications to enter the world of design, that’s why she took it upon herself to teach me. With that said, it was during a time when they were still teaching couture fashion, and so she taught me all the how-to’s; how to make a garment, how to put a sleeve in and how to get the proportions right. Also, in the evenings I used to go to a school for tailoring. So, really, I am skilled at tailoring suits and we are famous for our men’s and women’s suits, especially coats.
How would you personally describe your brand?
As I have said many times before, our brand is classic with a twist.
We gather you bring a lot of support to young designers. Could you tell us more about how it started and how do you manage it?
As we progress in our lives, we should try to give something back through experience or through finance, or however we can. In my case it is through scholarships as I have scholarships with several art schools and fashion schools where I pay for students’ education. And because I am very popular in Japan, every year I pay for an exchange program whereby 5 students come to England and 5 students go to Japan. I also work with the Royal Academy, which is a painting school, and let’s not forget all the students I take in as interns.
What is your business input in the Middle-East, do you often travel there?
I have been to the obvious places; Dubai is one of them of course. Unfortunately I have not been to Beirut but I would love to go there because it is very stylish and even my Head Salesman is from Beirut, Lebanon.
When did you feel like you’ve reached success?
I would have to say never, because fashion is about today and tomorrow. And I think that anybody who has too strong an ego and too big an opinion of themselves is in danger of failing because fashion is always moving. So I am blessed that I am just enjoying life.
You have a passion for cycling which later on translated into a cycling collection. Could you tell us more about this passion?
A lot of the young cyclists in London are friends of mine now but I personally do not have the opportunity to cycle as much as I would like to because my schedule is so hectic. I like to be at work by 6 o’clock every morning so I go swimming at 5 am and have done so for many, many, many years. I guess you can say I have replaced cycling with swimming, but in the summers, when I’m on vacation, I get to cycle.
So what would be your favorite travelling destination for your vacation?
I have a home in Tuscany in Italy, and that’s where I spend most of my holidays and enjoy cycling.
Cindy Menassa