by Mouna Harati
 
Sought after by jewelry and art collectors worldwide, Hong-Kong based Cindy Chao has become a leading name in the world of high-end jewelry design. With pieces considered as “wearable art” we couldn’t resist the chance to sit down with the Taiwanese designer and discover what initially lead her to create exceptional one-of-a-kind pieces that belong and live – metaphorically— in a world of their own. 
 
Your pieces look more like mini works of art rather than jewellery pieces.
 
Art is the expression of one’s creative imagination and the creation of work that is appreciated and admired for their beauty and their emotional power.
 
Jewelry is in fact exactly this; a designer’s vision brought to life through the use of precious metals and gemstones, creating an emotional connection with the collector. A piece of jewelry must speak to the potential new owner, much like a painting or sculpture would, as it becomes part of their daily life, reflecting a particular mood, or emotion.
 
A true piece of art, in addition to its ability to transcend time, must also embody the creator’s dedication and enthusiasm. It is because of this sheer dedication that the viewer can truly feel the depth in each of the pieces we create.
 
Your designs are exquisite detailed depictions of nature and the (crawly) beauties that inhabit it. Is there a particular reason?
 
Most people see jewelry and gemstones as inanimate objects. In fact, each gemstone, each diamond has already “lived” on the earth for millions of years. They have existed for an eternity, if measured in human time. In reality, no two gemstones are ever the same. I believe each gemstone has a life, a story and an emotion of its own.
 
Nature is mesmerizing because it is always in the passing. […] Yet, every evanescent moment is so very subtle. What I try to do with my creations is to capture the fleeting moments – a frosty maple leave in early winter dawn, a midnight rose, a whimsical flower in the wind, and I endeavour to do so by using the toughest and most timeless material – diamonds and precious gemstones.


 
Why butterflies?
 
A butterfly’s life span is fleeting yet pure, undergoing several transformations in a short period of time. This metamorphous is one I have undergone as an artist, transforming and pushing myself to create and share something pure and beautiful, pushing limits to give life to something even more spectacular than the last creation. 
 
Will you always be inspired by nature for your collections or will you expand into more abstract designs?
 
There is never one defining element to my inspiration. Though nature is a strong theme represented in my Four Seasons and Aquatic collections, I look not only to nature, but to architecture, voyages; various cultures and individuals to be inspired. All these encounters are stored in my mind, influencing my creative direction. Ultimately, I use my experiences and encounters to create each new art jewel; aspiring to capture a particular moment in time, arousing an emotion to generate a connection between the art jewels for my collectors.
 
Will my future sources of inspiration lead to my creating more abstract designs; only time will tell! 
 
Did you always want to become a jewelry designer?
 
I really got into the jewelry world once I developed the passion and realization that I had the ability to forge an art jewel that could forever capture a significant moment in the beholder’s life.

I had always wanted to become an architect or an interior designer when I was young. When I went to New York, I enrolled into interior design studies. My mother, who was paying for my tuition, firmly disagreed with my academic decision. She thought that being an interior designer and working with the contractors was too much sweat for a female, and insisted that I express my artistic ideas through another medium.
 
Due to her resolution, I transferred to jewelry design. Soon I realized that a piece of jewelry was very much like miniature architecture. As a designer I have to consider the basic structure of the art jewel, the lighting to bring out the brightest fire in the gem stones, even the engineering and composition of the jewelry during the production.



I was introduced to your designs with your hugely successful “Ballerina Butterfly” brooch, co-designed with Sarah Jessica Parker. How was it working with her?
 
Working with Sarah Jessica was a singular experience where I was able to explore my creative vision with a very dear friend, someone who has understood me and my work ever since we met. Sarah Jessica fully comprehended and appreciated the emotions and the stories, in forms of structure and coloration, embodied in my work. Throughout the years, she has always been very supportive, and has been there for me through ups and downs.
 
This collaboration was the first within my career, and therefore in and of itself represents a new milestone for me. Sarah Jessica and I have always talked about working together one day. On that particular day, we were chatting away about our roles as career women. Suddenly, she became very serious and asked me “Cindy, what can we do to help you?” The talk of working together was settled, but it took us quite some time to decide what to work on.

Sarah Jessica is a world renowned fashion icon, but I am not a fashion designer. As a jewelry designer, ordinary design isn’t challenging enough for me, nor meaningful enough for her. Next time we met in New York, I started to interview her, and bombarded with questions after questions. At one point she shared with me her passion for ballet, being a ballerina herself when she was young, how ballet, to this day, still transports her every time she watches a performance. I immediately recalled a backstage visit to PalaisGarnier a while ago in Paris. PalaisGarnier was built in 19^th century for the royal ballet and opera performances. Inside the ballet studio, there were many butterflies engraved on the wooden walls and panels. During my visit, I asked the guide the reason for having so many butterflies in the ballet studio. He said that the architect at the 19^th century believed that “every ballerina should be as light as a butterfly.”

That was the perfect combination of Sarah Jessica and I; she the ballerina; I the butterfly. […]

What do you think interests Arab jewellery collectors? What are they looking for?
 
From my observationof Arab architecture and interior design, I believe the Arab culture as a whole has an open mind to bolder designs and a vibrant use of colours, with a strong appreciation for details. These influences are further translated into their love of jewellery, with an abundance of colour, audacious designs and exquisite gemstones.
 
The more that I am exposed to Arabculture, the more I am drawn to the traditions and vitality of the culture.
 


I read somewhere that you consider your pieces “wearable art”.  Is that what you think makes you successful at auctions?
 
I believe that art is a revolution and a heritage. A revolution in a sense that all the great artists that we know of today, be it Damien Hirst or Michelangelo, all had innovative ideas within their time.
 
This is something I aim to do with each art jewel I bring to life. I aspire to innovate, pushing the boundaries in design and craftsmanship, using my preferred medium for expression, precious gemstones.
 
A piece of artwork, like jewellery, must be able to withstand the testament of time. It must transcend time and culture in order to be passed down for generations to come. This is what I believe makes my art jewels successful at auctions. There is an understanding, an appreciation for the technique and complexity in my designs, which collectors are able to relate to.
 
Your jewels have a distinctive look and in such a competitive industry, that can be overwhelmingly challenging. How important is it for you to stand apart?
 
There are so many different styles and forms of jewellery designs nowadays.  I am really glad to see this because it means that collectors have a better understanding and appreciation of jewellery and the art within it. I am also very proud to be part of this educational and inspiring process - to be able to demonstrate and share art jewels with global collectors.

I have continuously focused on the creation and pioneering of the craftsmanship behind the Art Jewels since the brand was established in 2004.  Throughout all these years it was the interaction and feedback from collectors that encouraged me to continue my craft, creating each of my jewellery pieces as a miniature work of art.  I came to an understanding that the vignette behind each art jewel is every bit as profound and mysterious as the gemstones it holds.  
 
My goal is not to try to necessarily stand apart from my professional peers, but to be amongst the industry innovators, leading and inspiring collectors to explore and appreciate inventive creations within jewellery.