by Yalda Zacca
We caught up with Bernard Weill, owner of the second oldest French Fashion house Weill, in Dubai to discuss how the family owned business continues to flourish after over 100 years, his passions and what he has learned along the way. The French entrepreneur, who is making his way to Kuwait next, has a longstanding relationship with Middle East and admires the vast development of the region.
This year, you are revamping your famed offices "La Manufacture" on 8, Rue Livingstone, in the heart of Montmartre, the building created by Robert Weill in 1924 and designed by famed architect Paul Dupre-Lafon in 1950. It is wonderful how Weill continues to carry-on many of the same traditions that make it the legendary brand it is today but it also looks to the future. What are some of the other ways in which Weill is modernizing?
We have to learn from the past and we have to look to the future and never stay where you are. I think that is a philosophy for life but also a philosophy for business. What is done is done and we cannot go back and tomorrow is another day. So your product has to change and evolve in function with the world and of the demand.
Is the oldest French fashion house to still be in existence, what do you accredit to Weill’s longevity?
You must always look to the people and be open to where the future will be. Be open-minded and try to understand what is going on and what possibilities you have and try them. As a student I studied in America and one thing that always marked me was this: the people who are successful are the ones who have tried things. The ones that are really successful are ones that have had less failure. Everything you do is not perfect but if you don’t try things you have no chance of going forward.
How did the company’s horse-drawn carriage logo come to be? And how does the logo still play into the brand’s heritage?
When my family came back after the war in the 1950s, they realized that the world had changed. My grandfather and my father went to America to see how others were doing business. They were using factories, branding and advertising - no one here was doing any of those things. My father quickly decided that we need to advertise. We choose a name and made labels – something very awkward at the time. As a result, they came up with the carriage. There are still only two companies in the world that have a horse drawn carriage - Hermes and us. Ours has a very sophisticated lady who is feminine and chic – the two important values we continue to maintain.
With extensive experience under his belt and a diverse portfolio, Weill artistic director Edward Achour’s designs are practical and feminine. How did you come to choose Achour to head Weill creatively?
He has his own brand that we manufacture and distribute for him. He is a very talented and dedicated man. He spends a lot of time with us. He is there every day. We work closely together. We have the same views for the future of the company and work towards the same direction. For me this is very important.
Who is the Weill woman?
Chic, feminine and fashionable. I don’t like to reduce her to specifics. There are chic and feminine woman all around the world – French, Lebanese, Kuwaiti, etc.
Weill offers couture quality at ready-to-wear prices, how do you make this possible?
It is a tradition. It is in the gene of the company. That’s how we see the garments. We are strict on quality. Sometimes in Paris I see our coats that are 30 years old on woman. I say that is fantastic! I think it is a matter of respect. We respect the customer. People spend money we have to give them in return a qualitative product.
There are two ways to do things. You can go the Zara route that sells fashionable items at a fantastic price with a quality that is quite good. But if you sell at a more expensive price, the least you can do is respect your customers and give them value for what they spend. Women have to be comfortable in their garments. The quality of the fabric has to be very good and the manufacturing process has to be excellent. It is the minimum. When you wear a garment or shoes you want them to be lasting.
Weill is one of the VERY few brands to offer sizes ranging from 36 to 52, and should be applauded for representing all women. Why do you think other brands do not follow suit?
Why give fashion to only women of size 36 to 40. Why? I don’t see any reason why a woman who is size 36 be more able to buy fashion than a woman who is 48. A woman is a woman whatever size she is. Fashion should not be dictated, it should be a pleasure.
Who are some of the female public figures you most see Weill clothing on?
In France, a lot of famous journalist and political figures.
Weill is one of the few businesses that is still entirely family owned, how has Weill been able to maintain that while others have not?
To work in a family business is very time consuming and a lot of hard work. I arrive before most people and I leave after most people.
As the 4th generation to take over the family business, you were in some ways born and bread to take on this role. If you could have any other career in the world what would it be?
I was not born and bread to be in the family business but there were 3 things I liked, and still like: first, the family business, then racing horses and finally modern art. So perhaps I could have been an art dealer or a trainer.
I was raised in a family where art is very important. My father has a big collection of modern art and has the biggest collection of African art in all of Europe. So I have been raised around art from a young age. Collecting art is a passion of mine.
You have helped make Weill the internationally recognized brand that it is today. What are some of the important lessons you learned along the way?
To take from the past. You must remember the past to go forward. I try to be more detached from what I was before. When you are more detached you embrace your present and look to the future. You must always look forward.
What is your favorite book?
Solal by French writer Albert Cohen. It is a love story. He is probably one of the most brilliant French writers.